Eating is for Eating

Our host on our beach day (hoping to get that blog written soon) kept saying, every time we told him we were full, "Eating is for eating."  And so, what better way to start off a blog about the food in Senegal than with his wise, wise words.

I had heard that the food in Senegal was delicious and that it might even be reminiscent of some of my favorite southern dishes, for heartbreakingly obvious reasons of who cooked much of the southern food for generations.  I will admit that my first few meals at restaurants in Dakar were good, but nothing that made my mouth water.  Fish is very popular, as Dakar is on the coast, but much of the fish I ate was a bit fishy, and that is just not my favorite flavor.  We actually had pizza a couple of nights with it's own Senegalese flair.  I will also admit that for several days, with a stomach that had trouble with the long bus rides and traffic in Dakar, I went with some safe, simple options.  

Chicken and Rice

Beef (and yes, they knew how to make a presentation!)

Dessert often included fresh fruit!

Seafood Risotto

Chicken

One delicious meal we had in Dakar was at the Teacher's College where we had the privilege of hearing from several professors and the assistant to the Minister of Education.  The highlight was certainly the English club that passionately spoke rhythmically to music about their love of learning the language.  Our meal was prepared for all 18 of us quickly in the smallest of kitchens and yet was absolutely bursting with flavor.  The spice in the noodles made our noses water, reminding many of us of Thai noodles.

My second favorite meal in Dakar was actually dinner on our last night.  We were treated to a gorgeous restaurant dangling over the sea with stunning sunset views.  The pineapple chicken was fresh, sweet and delectable, but I will most certainly admit that I'm confident the view made the food taste even better.

Myself, Sarah, Amy, Melisha and Anne-Michele

But then, I experienced meals in the homes of some amazing people, and I was blown away by the taste!  Was it the overwhelming teranga (hospitality) that added to the flavor?  Was it the ease at which these women prepared extravagant meals in such meager kitchens?  Was it how the food was served and the generous attitude with which it was given?  I will never be able to separate them all, but wow.

First, let me describe one kitchen that I had the pleasure of spending some time in.  Most kitchens we encountered were separated from the rest of the home, not far, but not necessarily connected to the living room and bedrooms.  They were concrete rooms with cinderblock walls, a solid floor and open doorways and windows which allowed for happy sparrows to sneak in and glean meals for their families.  While the homes had running water, that did not always mean the kitchen did.  There were not cabinets nor dishwashers nor stovetops, but rather an open counter for storage of large serving bowls where underneath large bags and buckets of supplies were kept.  Food was prepared over a propane tank and mothers with young children prepared every aspect of the meal with a baby strapped to her back.

Despite the fact that we encountered what we Americans would consider extreme poverty, I never once encountered an unhappy person.  Everyone seemed to have what they need, and that was enough.  This may in large part be due to teranga.  It is understood, in Senegal, that perhaps one day your neighbor may not have enough to feed his family, so you welcome him into your home, knowing that he may one day return the favor.  Rather than a burden, it is an honor to have guests in your home for meals.  

I've had the pleasure of speaking with many classrooms in my elementary school upon my return.  I've loved setting the scene for them... imagine you and your family sit down to a meal and your neighbors knock on the door and ask if they can join in.  Sure, most of us would, perhaps begrudgingly, say, "Sure, come on in."  But, can you picture what the moms in the group would start worrying about?  Not enough chairs!  Not enough plates!  Not enough portions!  Well, none of things are a concern in Senegal.

In Senegal, families and neighbors alike gather on the floor around one shared dish.  There's always room to welcome more people and there is always plenty of food when you split it this way.  Children are taught not to be selfish, learning how to eat what is in front of them and allowing the mothers to split up the protein amongst the family members.  Some ate with their hands and some a spoon.  Did it take some getting used to?  Sure.  Did I have to toss out all the germ-warnings I learned with COVID?  Sure.  But it was well worth it to have the pleasure to share in a meal.

One of our amazing in-country guides, Mouhamadou was escorting our crew to Saint Louis.  He said, "Do you want to stop by my home on the way and have lunch?"  Our response was, "Of course, but only if it is okay with your wife!"  To which he responded, "It was her idea!"

Chicken, carrots, potatoes, onion and french fries

The national dish of Senegal, Thiéboudienne, fish and rice.

Our last meal with our host, and his adorable 15 month old!

I know this does not look appetizing, but this was the best meal I had in Senegal and the only one I've already tried to replicate.  It is made with peanut butter in the sauce!  I tried this Maafe crock-pot recipe and it has a few adjustments I need make, but it is a good start!

On our beach day, we were forced to eat two incredibly delicious, huge meals within just a few hours of one another.  I know, it is a task that few could take on.  But, we tried our best and were often encouraged by our host whenever we paused, trying to say that in fact we were full, "Eating is for eating."  It was hard to refuse such food and such hospitality.

Mango was in season, fresh and truly delicious!

One other aspect of the meal that I thoroughly enjoyed was the ataya.  After meals, it was common to have a class or two or three of ataya to help with digestion.  Ataya is just tea, and I often agree with Ted Lasso when it comes to tea: "You know I always figured that tea was gonna taste like hot, brown water. And you know what? I was right. It was horrible."  But this tea, perhaps because it is drunk in small portions, or perhaps because of the high percentage of sugar, or perhaps it is the love that goes into the making, made it absolutely perfect.  It was great for sipping on after a filling meal.  The foam at the top was carefully crafted by the maker by pouring the tea from a high point and creating bubbles in the small cups.

I keep thinking of the lyrics of "Crowded Table" by Highwomen. "I want a house with a crowded table, and a place by the fire for everyone."  I've never been in a place that embodied this more.