Big Picture on Senegal

It is hard for words to express the impact that my time in Senegal had on me.  My eyes were opened in new, expansive ways, and my understanding of the world, and my profession, grew.  

I do want to take some time to honestly, and openly express my thoughts about my travels in Senegal.  Often, I know that our social media posts tint our vision with rose-colored glasses, and while this can be helpful, I want to also be honest.

1. Teranga.  First and foremost, how I portrayed hospitality was not tinted.  It was honest, heartfelt and overwhelming.  I must admit that the hospitality that I was shown almost embarrassed me.  It wasn't that it made me feel uncomfortable, it was more that hospitality was something I had always prided myself on, something that we Southerners are known for.  We have a long way to go.

2. Trash.  I spoke on a recent post about trash.  Again, I reiterate when I say this, that I know I am spoiled, and that my trash that I accumulate quite probably becomes someone else's problem, and the recycling that I hope is positively impacting the world, is quite probably dirtying up someone else's living environment.  BUT, all that being said, I was not ready for the trash I encountered.  It was everywhere, and as there were not many collection bins, nor regular pick-ups, it was understandable.  However, it took away from the place, and seemed to take away from the seeming pride the people had in their nation.

3. Toilets.  Again, I am spoiled, and I know this.  I am in a country with a government that generally speaking, runs well and keeps the people's interest and safety at the forefront (perhaps this is a positively tinted-view).  As such, I am able to flush my excrement away and have no concerns over where it goes.  I am in a country that has training schools that prepare plumbers who can help me when the simple process doesn't work as it should.  That was not the case in Senegal.  The hotels I stayed in were perfectly fine.  They were nothing fancy, but generally speaking, hot water ran, air conditioners worked and toilets flushed.  BUT, outside of our hotels and some fancy restaurants, that was not the case at all.  Most places did have toilets.  They were not holes in the floor that I have encountered in other countries.  However, it was rare that the toilets had a seat.  It was rare that the toilets actually flushed (often, a bucket of water was close by for you to use to dilute what you left in the toilet).  Toilet paper was a luxury, that really shouldn't be flushed, and there often wasn't a trash can around, so....  Sinks with soap and running water were also a luxury.  We created a rating system with our fellow Fulbrighters that allowed us to determine how badly we needed to use the facilities.  It was a simple 0-5 scale where each of the following counted for one point: toilet seat, toilet paper, flushing capabilities, soap, running water to wash hands.  Most toilets I encountered were a 0 or 1.  So, in this hot, dry place where we had to purchase bottled water and then struggle to find a trash can and then visit the uninviting toilets, well, I did not stay hydrated nearly as much as I should have.

4. Patience.  I am accustomed to rushing through life.  Don't get me wrong, I have plenty of time where I slow down to enjoy a meal with friends or family, or perhaps to go for a leisurely walk or do a puzzle.  But, generally speaking, like many Americans, I rush through things to get as much done as physically possible.  What emails can I send while standing in line at the grocery store?  Which route can I take that doesn't involve traffic?  How quickly can we accomplish this task so that we can move on to the next one?  That was not the case in Senegal, and it was a breath of fresh air.  Whether it was the traffic that slowed people down, or how things seemed to run on "island time", or how people stood on the side of the road hoping someone would drive them a mile or two to home, instead of being looked at as an inconvenience, it was almost treasured.  People didn't seem stressed or anxious, but instead, this down time gave them time to build relationships and connect with the people around them.  There seemed to be a gift, a treasure in appreciating how the day would unfold.

5. Women's Rights.  Senegal is the most stable and progressive country in West Africa.  Hearing this made me equally impressed and horrified.  This country has worked hard, progressed through colonization and the horrors of slavery to become a stable country in a region not known for its stability.  And yet, when you see the deficiencies in the country (like trash and toilets and women's rights), it makes you stop and think... oh my... what are the other countries around here like?  Now, I know that the women in Senegal are treated far better than other parts of the world, but the lack of equality between men and women was difficult to stomach.  Women were in charge of all household duties, and with the lack of modern conveniences, this is more than enough to fill a day.  This meant if the men were home from work, there was no pressure for them to help, but instead it was just expected for the women to do it all.  This was even the case if there was a female teacher in the presence of male teachers.  Who fixed the tea and tidied the staff room?  Obviously, the female, even though her teaching responsibilities were equal to her male counterparts.  It was common for men to have multiple wives, and as one can only imagine, the women had no say in that.  Sometimes, teenage girls did not get to finish school because they had to marry to support their families.

6.  Poverty.  I have encountered extreme poverty before, and I'm sure I will again, but Senegal was certainly full of extreme poverty.  And yet, what stuck out to me the most was how happy everyone was.  Everyone seemed to have what they need, and we encountered true and utter happiness.  William, a fellow Fulbrighter may have coined it best when he said, "the people of Senegal are poor in resources, but rich in culture."  Upon my return, I had the opportunity to visit classrooms in my own, affluent school.  I showed them photographs of the classrooms with sandy concrete floors, no electricity, few resources and yet eager hands raised in the air.  We had wonderful discussions about how the kids had what they needed, and that the large number of students meant that kids had to be more independent and self-reliant.  I believe my own students had to have a moment of self-reflection, just as I did.  It is so easy to get caught up in the needs and wants we have in our society that lead to feelings of envy and depression.  The Senegalese people reminded me of what was really important, and to be grateful for all that I do have.

7. Safety.  I am fortunate enough to travel frequently.  When I travel around the states or to Europe, it is rare for someone to mention, "be safe!"  Yet, when I travel to places that are very different from America, or perhaps just places that are not as frequently mentioned on our news stations, my loved ones become nervous for me.  That's understandable.  I promise I understand.  I won't lie and say that there is no crime in Senegal.  However, the most common crime in Senegal is petty theft.  Fewer citizens have guns, so there are little to no mass shootings.  When I showed photos of the schools I visited to students in my own school, several commented on the open doors and windows, asking about the safety of the schools.  Our schools are beginning to feel more and more like institutions with locked doors and armed officers.  I was able to assure our students that safety wasn't something the students in Senegal really had to worry about.

8.  Overwhelming helplessness.  I am a doer, so while in Senegal, I found my mind constantly reeling with the thought of, "how do we help?"  As I said, the people of Senegal have what they need and are happy.  However, you also read above about women's rights, trash and the lack of proper sanitation.  Sure, I could organize a drive to collect school supplies and spend hundreds of dollars to mail .55cent notebooks across the Atlantic.  But, that's barely even a band-aid.  Also, I want to find ways to collaborate, but not contaminate.  The people of Senegal are doing well, and they have found their way to do things that works.  I don't need to to present my way of life as the only or best way, but instead, I need to find grass roots organizations that support projects like the village of Guelack, Heifer International (which is working Senegal), programs that empower women and support education (Global Giving) and programs that support engineering classes in the country so that students grow up learning to solve problems.  I need to spread messages about how amazing the people of Senegal are.  As I told the classes I spoke with, Fulbright is a government sponsored program that works to create international peace and understanding through interactions with everyday people.  In reading my blog, in speaking with people, I am sharing about these incredible people that few from my part of the world know much about.  And I need to stay involved and informed with my country's politics so that when I hear of ways that our country can help countries in West Africa to become more self-sufficient and politically stable, I can speak up and ask for my representatives to support those initiatives.

I am beyond grateful, both to Fulbright, to my fellow Fulbrighters whom I had the benefit of learning with and from, and for the welcoming people of Senegal for this life changing experience.

Maalekuum Salam